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All photo's are Copyright of Scott Swalling or the tagged Photographer. (Background photo Scott Swalling Photography).

About Me:

24Hr MTBike racer and general bike rider, climber and mountaineer. Good coffee drinker and cake eater (any cake, seriously, don't leave your cake laying around). Also, I like to try new things that challenge me.

Thursday 27 October 2011

Slate, I do love it - Part Two

After another night of high winds and rain, as we snuggled deep into our sleeping bags in the comfort of the hut, a more leisurely start to the day was taken as it was still wet and windy.  A quick trip to Llanberis gear shops and then we headed to Australia Upper, the Gorbals Level first, far to windy but some nice looking routes.

Next we checked out Skyline Buttress Level, immediately some routes caught Ant's and my eye.  So we all geared up and headed to the routes.  Actually, it took me an age to get sorted, but soon enough I started up my chosen line, just as the wind started to pick up.

Through some thin climbing and some yo-yoing I made it to a flake and the third bolt, just as the wind changed direction and increased.  This was as the holds got smaller and route finding more difficult.  by this time Claire had started up behind Ant.  I was taking my time.  A bit of discussion with Nik, then with Claire (offering a rope from the top once they were up, which I suggested "might not be bad, but don't rush to drop it").

By the time Claire disappeared from view the wind died a little, I had sussed a line and set off, a few more limpet moments as the wind buffeted me and I was at the next bolt, then a bit of route cleaning and another long run out and I was at the last bolt.  Some lose blocks, some gardening and Ant and Claire encouraging me from the top and I was there.  I thank them both for getting at the ready for me.

Nik started up and had a broad smile all the way up, she made nice move after nice move.  Once she arrived at the top and we spoke about the route, I could start enjoying the route.  The wind had made it difficult to do so.  Even the point when the wind blew solidly for several minutes and I was glued to the rock giggling, had been pushed to the back of my mind.

Back at the base of the climb something was bugging me, I looked at the guide book, after confirming the (fine) line we had climbed, it really was lovely climbing now that I played it back.  It turns out I had linked The Skyline Club and Antiquity, in doing so I created a new and logical linked route, Antiquity Direct E1 5a, 40m.  http://slate.wetpaint.com/page/SKYLINE+BUTTRESS+LEVEL

Well I couldn't be more chuffed, I contacted the guys at Ground Up and they suggested getting it on the wiki, so I did.

Ant and Claire had also had a great days climbing and we all seemed content like fat cats that had just eaten and found the sun shinning through the window their favorite cushion.


It was time to head home and I did so, with a warm feeling that my climbing mojo was back and Nik's certainly was.

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