Ice Fest 2012

I might be getting a little better at this filming bit, very slowly mind.

Peglers Ice Fest 2 2012, Vallouise.  had the pleasure of climbing with Jerry Gore as well.

Enjoy!


Ice Fest 2012 from Scott Swalling on Vimeo.

A quick Ice Fest entry.

On Wednesday, with a slow start, Nik and I headed back into Fournel. Every route we looked at that was suitable for the time we had, was either falling down or being knocked down by avalanche from above or about to fall down.  Finally we found one we had looked at in the guide booked that look thin but solid.  This was after wading through lots of powder knee deep to get to the base.

I started up, after some faff, both feet popped at one point, but I stayed on, placed a screw, climbed on a bit and then felt it was not worth the way I felt.  Down climbed and headed out as we both went in the mood.  We had a relaxing afternoon with a lot of sleep, which I think I needed.  It was nice to be in a position to bail-out without having committed, I have been in that position a few times and whilst I pull through, it can be very stressful and best avoided where possible.

The next day I would climb with Jerry Gore, back in Fournel.  We climbed Nain des Ravines, sim-climbing the all but the first 2 pitches and the final pitch up Columna Cataluna.  The story of the day here was me feeling very grim and doing my best not to shart all the way up the route.  This I was successful in doing, but did not feel well enough to lead Columna Cataluna when it was offered by Jerry.  Although we both did fly up a very soft 5+.

It was fun climbing with Jerry and certainly entertaining and great to see that you only slow down with age if you let yourself.  It was a pleasure to climb with him.

The final day Friday, saw Nik, Ally, Dave T and myself head to Puy St Vincent for some skiing and me wishing I had my carvers as the Coombacks juddered their way through each on piste and most off piste turns as little powder was found.  Some fun tree skiing took the edge of things and by the end of the day I was warmed up again.

Pictures soon!

 View from the Chalet.

Ice Fest 2012 Update

After a long drive with little sleep we arrived in Vallouise which has a nice old village centre, we found the gite and Dave P and met the others.

Sunday, we headed to Fournel and Nik and of climbed Davidoff 4+ to 5, with Dan and Will following in another pair.  Nik and I then went for another walk to see what else looked interesting for later in the week. More about that later.

Monday we (Dan, Will, Nik, Tommy, Paul and myself) headed to Cervieres.  The long approach allowing for a good test of skining in on our skis and getting use to skiing in powder (only a little way) with a heavy pack.  The climbing for me here was a lead on an unnamed 90 degree pillar with a thin curtain start, having a proper moment at the top, which after a lot of yelling at myself to ward of my fear I pulled through to the belay.  I then followed Will up Cascade du Bourget, 4 to 5.  The ski out after the initial crashes under the crag in the tracked powder proved to be fun and easy and encouraging for Denali.

Today (Tuesday), we headed for Ceillac, a longer drive on some impressive winding roads and reading a list of great Tour de France climbs on the road signs bought us to the car park and easy acces.  Will, Dan and myself headed for Sombre Heros, 5. Dan making a great lead on the crux pitch and Will on the next tricky little pillar.  I was doing my best to get film and photo footage.

Next we went to climb Le formes du chaos. After 3 pitches (about 120ms) on some interesting and thin and wet ice, we decided to call it a day as the light was fading fast and we didn't fancy negotiating the melting ice in the dark, we retreated happily with a descent days climbing under the belt.  I also managed to knock some large chunks off on my ab. :)

More to come, some photos and film to follow as well.

S