A Dirty Weekend in Scotland

It all started slowly, we (Jamie and I) left Guildford later than expected and got caught in traffic jam after traffic jam. One caused by something hitting a bridge and trying to incinerate it, we hope everyone was ok. We eventually arrived at 0030 after setting of at 1430, our endurance already tested. We pitched tents quickly and dived into bed.

In the morning we awoke and were greeted with a nice view on the valley and the event village.



We quickly registered ate breakfast and load with food and water and set off at around 0830, in overcast but stable weather with mild winds, it would stay this way until very close to the end of the day.

First stop from the start is the check-point value hand-out, we grab our copy, quickly assigned the values to our CP’s on our map and made a plan of attack, this would involve a large hill to start with and myself in less than peak condition, a dodgy front brake and seat post that kept slipping (which it hadn’t done before.


By the time we reached the first CP, my back was very sore and would only get worse as the day progress and my right knee, felt a little odd, this would also get worse. It was at this point I got sick of my seat slipping and took the time to work out what was exactly wrong, I rectified this and we were on our way.


We quickly ticked the next couple of CP’s but my back had become agonising, and maybe masked the pain of me knee. I actually felt quite rough and really had to dig deep to keep pushing on, at one point (Jamie didn’t know) on a climb I almost threw up from the pain in my back. We pressed on and ticked further CP’s and many of the allotted 7 hours had passed and passed quickly.

A fellow racer charges down hill.

It was time to sweep the last couple of CP’s we could and head home in time to avoid point penalties due to running over the 7 hours. I found something to charge to the very last CP and then charge back to the finish, however with about 3 mile left my back wasn’t having anymore of it today, not this day. I popped and had to plod home, but we still made it over the with about 2 minutes to spare and 330 points. The fastest Open Male had collected 640 with the closest to him around mid 400 mark and many more with less than Jamie and I.

We ate and took on water and a few of the Traquair House’s own brew, we recommend this. Then I went for a massage to see what could be done about my back. What could be done was full recovery, the physio manage to relieve all pain and stiffness from my back, which unfortunately would reveal the fall damage to my knee.

After watching the event band, we decided it was time for bed.

The next morning we awoke and to my delight my knee was f***ed, but it was only 5 hours today, it was only light rain and it had been great chatting to others during the race yesterday and we had planned to attack the CP’s on the other end of the map.

We had breakfast, I had my front brake adjusted slightly, but this would last about 5 minutes and I would be with only my rear brake on wet chossy decents (this took me back to my downhilling days). We set off collecting the new CP values for the day made a plan and promptly cocked it up.

We eventually worked out where we were, revised the plan and headed off in the right direction, this also, involved a big climb for the first check point, but it was a good plan. The state of my knee would cause a great deal of time loss on ascents as it hurt when I applied too much pressure. I had to find the best gear to spin in and plod up all the hills.

This was terribly frustrating for me and I imagine Jamie, worse still for me as I was absolutely full of beans as my back didn’t hurt at all. On the flats we cruised at good pace and on the descents I railed like a mad man with no front brake, hmm!

However, this would prove to be a great and exciting day and the single tracks were amazing and I got to test some long since used skills on technical up and down. I smiled just about all of the day Sunday as I managed my knee well, even though we were losing time, I had no choice, it was slow uphill or cab back to the event village.

(The single track was amazing with drop offs, rock gardens, switch backs, paddles, rock garden drop offs and more, I was in my element and didn’t want to leave, each rider in my sight a new target. The ascents were as fun as the descents and Jamie helped a MTB instructor to demonstrate how not to ride over a wet root, he made a great save.)

We pressed on, to only be undone, further by my error in reading a trail marker as a footpath rather than a right of way, The Tweed Valley Way. This would cost us a lot of time and me a very painful walk up a long overgrown and unused bike track, which the pain of did bring tears to my eyes at one point, but we topped out, narrowly avoided another cock up, which would have required another long painful uphill walk.

We descended the most interesting of the tracks on the event, part stream, part choss pile and part mud, my front brake was now near useless, so this descent for me was fast, furious and over very quickly as I arrived at a stream crossing and the next CP. We left here bothered some sheep that would not listen to me to get out the way, then we made the final long ascent of the way to the next CP and then to the crest of the hill.

I once again tried had to shut out the pain of my knee, like I had done my back the day before, but with more success today. We made good time to the crest of the hill and then bombed down the other side, over a small rise then through some farm land to the event village and wet muddy finish.

We had not done as well as the day before, but I think we knew this, I needed to ice my knee and get warm, and eat, not necessarily in that order.
We finished 21st in the Open Men, which with all things being considered, was pretty good, I now have an appointment with my physio to get my knee right for a trip to the Alps, fingers crossed.

The Dirty Weekend is a combination on the:
Polaris Challenge
ACE Race
And, Dirty Dozen
(all links shown to the left and result and photo’s on http://www.sleepmonsters.co.uk/ )

It brings these events together for a great weekend with like minded people and drank lunatic called Sean. Everyone was really chilled and very nice, lots of encouragement was handed out between us all which seems to be rare in many competitive events now days, I can’t wait for the next one.

I can’t wait for the next one.

Rock Incident at Boulder Ruckle, Swanage

Back on the 10th a good friend of mine Cat and I decided that after a night of catching up and having a good laughed, followed by a morning easing Cat out of her hangover that actually climbing might be a good idea.

So we set off from Toms Field, grab food and coffee in Swanage and headed for Boulder Ruckle (BR). Cat had chosen a route that she was interested in, but as best laid plans are at BR it would be prove to be hard to locate.

We geared up, ab'ed in and set about boulder hopping to find the route. The sun was shining brightly and the sea looked inviting for a swim. Cat located what we believed to be the route and as I was already racked up, I set off.

I pottered my way up to a break under a roof, there was some discussion if this was correct. So I down-climbed the route about 10-15 feet and had a look around the blunt and very blank arete and groove. Whilst I was unsure of the routes direction now, it was apparent that the best way forward was to the break under a huge roof.

I arrived here, fiddled together a belay and then belayed Cat to the stance, she arrived rapidly.

Next Cat would lead a traverse to a groove and the top-out above, sounds simple enough right? Erm, it is Boulder Ruckle.

Cat set off and made short work of the traverse and went out of view. A little while later after paying out some rope, a few pieces of rock went past my stance. I paid out some more, then some more, then took in a bit. Then a larger rock fell to the boulders below, fortunately, no Cat followed.

I paid out some more, took it in again, this got repeated again and another rock smaller went past, but the rope was still slack and Cat above me somewhere. Soon, I would get the familiar 3 tugs on the rope and set off.

Being slightly larger than Cat the cramped traverse was turned into a hand and smear traverse and I arrived at the base of the groove quickly. I then realised why Cat had climbed and then downclimed a few times. Boulder Ruckle is know for its chossy top outs and this was no exception. As I steadily picked my way through the deteriorating rock with a couple of decent run outs, I thought what an ace lead for the terrain.

I soon could see Cat and the belay stake, if you could call it that, but it was sound, just very small. Cat's last bit of gear was well below this and I commented that she had climbed a great lead (although she out climbs me easily I thought it had to be said). We chatted as I moved carefully over the rubble.

I had got to a point on the choss where I was stood on a good sounds slab, a bit of choss and hands on only dirt. I had noticed a what look to be a very lose and large block, it was slightly above me. What happened next shock me up quite a bit at the time.

I was just about to step of the slab, when the lose block moved, I saw this out the corner of my eye. I buried my face in the chossy and dirt and got as flat as I couldpushing my arms above my head. The block slid from a few feet above my head, hit me in the right arm and slid down this and over my shoulder, falling to the boulders below with me screaming "BELOW!!!", it hit and shattered loudly, it was big.

I looked at Cat, she asked "Are you all right?", I was shaken and stirred. It took me about 5-10 minutes to cover the last 3 meters. My ordeal wasn't over, but the scariest bit was. Next I waded through thorns and brambles to the path, getting sliced to bits.

Cat joined me shortly after and we assessed the damage, a few cuts and bruises and a couple of marks on my helmet. Cat mentioned at the time it was luck I had my helmet on. She was entire correct.

We decided to call it a day there, as we had not enjoyed the route, we could not work out which route we had done (not uncommon for BR) and Cat had to pack for a big trip to Canada (see her link to the right).

We said our goodbyes and headed home. When I unpacked my kit I checked my helment again for damage and found a significant cut in the hard surface of my helmet. I pondered this for a moment and realised just how much worse this could have been, without my helmet on.

I don't normally wear my helmet on sports routes or even trad routes, where the rock is known to be very stable, but always do in a new area or a chossy one, and will continue to do so and maybe wear it even more often now.

But guys, when you are out climbing, be sure to know the rock stability of the area before going helmetless and if you are unsure, just wear one. I am very glad I did.

Happy climbing!
Scott

Summer Mountain Leader Training – Weekend 2, Day 2

(Continued from Weekend 2, Day 1)

The next morning we were up, cooked and ate, all in a civil manner as we did not have to rush today. We broke camp and then de-briefed the events of the night before.  During this de-brief a few things would be learnt and no-one person was to blame, but certainly having the confidence to talk up when you think things are going a bit wrong is certainly a very good thing to do.

If Giles had said something at the point when he had noticed the error or I when I was not entirely convinced we were on the right path, we may well have not incurred the error.  Live and learn!

Live and learn we did. We saddled up, Ant given the first leg of the day’s navigation and off we set.  I without a map as I am super hardcore and was using the inner pigeon.......oh, and I couldn’t find the other map anywhere I looked to buy one.

Ant landed us on the first contour point set by Stuart, after we had spotted the other group who would have a similar heading as us and we would see a few times before returning to the “start point” of the previous day.

Andy was up next and off we set, me only occasional looking at a map, trying my best to follow the contours, taking the occasional bearing, noting my altimeter and noting d’jounrey.  ;-)  We contoured under a large crag eventually arriving at a v-shaped contour and a Skylarks nest (to be confirmed).  Everyone pointed to where they thought we were. I had decided we were elsewhere and convinced Giles of this.

This time we spoke up, I sighted my reasons why to Stuart and then Giles did.  Then Giles was asked to prove it by taking us to the point we thought we would see around a significant high point and crag. We trundle off and found the dog leg in a river at the exact point and over the exact journey we had identified.

Andy, now relocated us to the exact point we needed to be perfectly and it would be Toby’s turn to lead a leg.  I don’t know about the others, but I think with the change of maps from 1:25 000 to 1:50 000, I could have made the exact same error, just as easily, as constantly had to remind myself when I looked at someone’s map it was 1:50 000.

Toby got us successfully to the next point.  We discussed some more group management, first aid and then practiced some emergency stretcher bearing exercises.  It was nice to see some team work and group bonding occurring again so easily, in a clearly tired team.

I was given the task of getting us off the hill, whilst Toby proved that he was an excellent speaker and deeply knew his subject matter and provided some humorous anecdotes during his 5 minute talk.

We arrived back with everyone receiving their personal de-brief from the weekend and all said they were happy with it and expected the comments they received.

A successful weekend by all accounts, including Nikki surviving the Wayfarer of Death, Heather’s keys being retrieved in a timely manner and Toby surviving a night in a tent with me, the plucky duck and I feeling a little gaseous after the Mountain House meal.

A quick meal at the pub, some catch-up from everyone and then we all headed off.  Giles and I in convoy at least until Giles found fuel which he did without incident.  5.5 hrs later I found myself at home and looking forward to the final weekend in Wales.

It was great to get to know the crew a little bit more and I do enjoy spending time with them on the hill.